Anzac Day at Hellfire Pass, 2018

Descending through the lush tropical bamboo forest we hear the gravel crunch underfoot. We walk quietly through a twenty-meter-high rock cutting that’s carved out by hand. Bamboo lanterns throw eerie shadows, as people quietly make their way along the dark path. This is how Anzac Day at Hellfire Pass in the Kanchanaburi region of Thailand started for us, this 25 April 2018.

Reaching the ceremonial clearing we joined many hundreds of Aussies, Kiwis and people from all parts to await the Dawn Service. Some speak in hushed tones, others reflecting in silence. A young man proudly wears his grandfather’s medals and we all wait patiently. The uniformed Catafalque party approach, their crisp footsteps distinct, and take up traditional guard positions around the central memorial. Padre Cornelis Bosch leads us in thanks and prayer, followed by a Statement of Remembrance by the Chief of the Australian Army.

As dawn breaks, leaves gently rustle, and melodic bird songs compliment the soft, sombre tone of the ceremony. Ears are peeled as 96-year-old Australian ex-POW Neil MacPherson OAM speaks:

“They shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old;

Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.

At the going down of the sun and in the morning

 We will remember them.”

“Lest we forget”

The Royal Thai Army Buglers further captivate the gathering and pierce the soft morning playing the Last Post. We all stand silent, reflecting on our own thoughts. Proudly we watch the flags slowly raised; the bright, cheerful call of Reveille, helps lift our spirits to a new day. Beautiful wreaths are placed by Australia, New Zealand, and Thailand officials in memory of so many lost Prisoners of War.

History to be discovered

Read more of this post

Wine tasting fun – when opportunities present!

Large red wine glasses, two rows of five, lined up atop the wine bar. Monsoon Valleys winemaker and their wine consultant on one side of the counter, Vivien and me on the other. A serious wine tasting happening right in front of us. The task for them was to choose the next Shiraz to take the place of the current vintage. The stock of the current vintage was all but sold out. There were four newer batches of Shiraz under consideration – but which one was ready?

Tasting each in comparison to the current vintage. Identifying the characteristics of each, a little too much tannin on one, a nice chocolaty character on another, the fruit a little too vibrant on one more. And we got to play along whilst the experts went through their process. Just Vivien and me – what a privilege!

Having attended a wine tasting hosted by Monsoon Valley wines – a large vineyard just 45 minutes drive from our home here in Hua Hin. The evening was coming to an end and the invited crowd was now focused on securing their dinner.

Over the course of the last hour, the 30 or so invited guests, including us, had sampled Monsoon Valley’s Signature White – a Chenin blanc. Their Signature Red, mainly based on the locally cultivated but German origin Dornfelder grape variety. And Monsoon Valley’s Sparkling Brut Prestige. The wine tasting was accompanied by canapes from the wine bars kitchen – all perfectly tasty and suitable matched.

Two, soon to be launched wines, were also tasted – a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand’s Marlborough region and a Shiraz from South Australia’s Langhorne Creek. Both to be released under the companies Mont Clair label.

Appreciative comments on the wines were overheard from our fellow wine tasters. Questions proffered to and answered by the winemaker on the wines and the new imports. The crowd suitable happy with what was on offer and the price points of the various wines. The sniff of potential wine sales a positive outcome for winery staff.

We had been having a conversation with Hans-Peter Hoehnen, the German wine consultant who has worked with the vineyards winemakers for the last 10 years helping them successfully develop international standard wines.

Hans-Peter and French-trained local winemaker Suppached Sasomsin now needed to make their choice for the next Monsoon Valley Shiraz. Instead of suggesting we leave, they invited us to be part of the process. Hans-Peter was aware that I had already written and had published magazine stories on the vineyard – simple ‘must do’ travel pieces for people coming to Hua Hin. This insight into the winemaking process could be an interesting story Hans-Peter suggested! Who were we to say no to such an opportunity?

For wine lovers like Vivien and me, we were now privy to a private insight into the challenges winemakers have, vintage after vintage! After some twenty minutes of wine swirling in their bulbous glasses, aromas evaluated, color and texture in the glass assessed, tasting and spitting done – wine by wine and all against the ‘benchmark’ current vintage. A decision was made. A successor names!

And for us, time to say goodnight and a heartfelt thank you to our hosts. We had a new found appreciation for winemakers and their requisite skills.  What an opportunity we had just had. And what a soul-enriching evening this had been!

You can read about a previous visit to Hua Hin Hills vineyard, now called Monsoon Valley vineyards, here.

Vassavasa – Thailand’s annual ‘rain-retreat’

This blog post looks at two connected religious holidays that have happened this last weekend. They mark the beginning of Vassavasa – a three-month annual retreat observed by Theravada Buddhists which in Thailand equates to over 93% of the population.

Our new home of Thailand certainly offers near-daily opportunities for experiencing and learning something new about life in the ‘Land of Smiles’. These new experiences could be related to history, culture, customs, language, food (Yum), and in this particular instance, the religious aspects of life.

Vassavasa – broadly translated means ‘rain-retreat’ and stipulated that during the rainy season monks and other ascetics remain in their monastery or temple grounds and refrain from travel for the 3 lunar month period of Vassavasa, usually from July to October.

Monks would spend this time meditating and developing their understanding of Buddha’s Dharma (doctrine or teachings). The retreat period is also popular time for Thai boys and men to become ordained as monks.

Asanha Bucha

Asanha Bucha Day, falling on the full moon is the first of the two days and observes Buddha’s first sermon in the Deer Park in Benares, India. In the sermon, which is known as ‘Setting the Wheel of Dharma in Motion’, the Buddha first spelled out the Four Noble Truths and the Noble Eightfold Path. This event, which took place about 2,500 years ago, also signifies the founding of the Buddhist sangha (monkhood).

Read more of this post

Amphawa Floating Market @ dusk

Amphawa – Captivating Markets & Mighty Warriors

We love that there is always something new to do and experience here in our new adopted home in Thailand. Be it new foods to taste, cultural events to experience, natural attractions to visit, or new locations to tour and explore. Our latest outing had us visiting two very different and captivating markets and learning about some mighty warriors in the township of Amphawa in Samut Songkhram province just 145 km north of our home in Hua Hin and only 70 km south of Bangkok.

The area is characterised by a network of more than 300 canals (Klongs) jutting out from the adjacent Mae Khlong river.  The region is also naturally rich with an abundance of seafood, fruits, vegetables, salt fields and coconut palm sugar.

Amphawa has managed to retain its classic rural Thai charm. So much so, the town received an award from UNESCO in 2008 for its efforts to conserve the centuries-old teak wood homes and temples that line Amphawa’s central canals.

We decided to make it a weekend trip so we had a reasonable amount of time to explore Amphawa and surrounds. Our first stop was to the Mae Khlong (Railway) Market.

Mae Khlong (Railway) Market

The original Mae Klong Municipal Food (Wet) Market in Samut Songkhram town backs onto the Ban Laem Train Line which terminates just a few hundred meters away at Mae Klong Railway Station.

The market sits within a purpose built building and is said to be a great place, in particular, to shop for fresh local seafood. Somehow, over time, it seems that the market has grown out the rear of the building and onto the sides of the railway track immediately behind.

Read more of this post

Songkran – Thai New Year 2017

It’s our second year living in Thailand and second Songkran (Thai New Year) so I started wondering what Songkran is all about.  It has become know as The World’s Biggest Water Party and now attracts thousands of people who visit Thailand specifically to take part – but it must be more than this. Having more or less, hidden behind closed doors last year –  heard so many negative stories about the behaviour of people on Songkran. This year I decided to take much more of an interest – and most importantly try to understand what this festival is for Thai people.

Here’s what I found out!

Songkran traditions are a long way from the images shown in the world’s newspapers every year – powder smeared tourists armed with water pistols and wide grins.

The Thai New Year, in its purest form, is a religious festival steeped in Buddhist and Brahman traditions. Marking the end of a 12-month cycle when the sun moves into April and there was traditionally a gap between rice harvesting and planting a new rice crop. Acquiring its name from the Sanskrit word “Songkran”, meaning to move or pass into. The origins derive from the ancient Indian Festival of Makar Sankriti. The Indian version recognizes the sun’s celestial path and Thai translate the version recognizing the passing of an old year into a new one. Songkran is now held on fixed days, 13-15 April.

So what do Thai people do during Songkran?

Regarded as one of the most important traditions in Thailand because it encompasses three major values in the Thai way of life which are:Read more of this post

Andaman Islands – our cultural insights!

Andaman Islands – our Cultural Insights

India’s the Andaman Islands and more specifically it’s capital, Port Blair provided us with several cultural insights – and isn’t that what travel is all about – seeing new, unexpected, or just real life experiences and events that provide insight to local people’s lives.

There were so many highlights and bonuses that we did not expect. Here is a selection of experiences that stuck with us!

And if you have not read about our Andaman Islands cruising story here.


Our first cultural insight was accidental. Wandering the streets adjacent to Aberdeen Market one of our troop noticed stores that looked like they hired out catering equipment – massive pots 3 and 4 feet across and gas burners to sit underneath. On asking our driver he explained these are used in preparing the catering for weddings held at halls just up the street. After some encouragement he took us to one such hall where, coincidently for us, a wedding was in progress.  Our troop tentatively entered the courtyard of the hall and found ourselves being welcomed and encouraged to enter to see what was happening. The males in our troop were ushered into the male eating area and plates of food thrust forward. People were happy to pose for photos and parents even offered their children, dressed in their finery, as subjects for more photos. What a colourful, happy, friendly and joyous place!

Hindu Festival

The annual Hindu festival in celebration of Goddess Devi Muthu Mariamman was happening during our second visit to Port Blair. Devotees, mainly Tamil speaking Hindu, participate in 10 days of devotion and get blessings. We were lucky to see the gathering and procession of devotees who had chosen to participate in the sacred Fire Walk – a culminating event of the festival. The Fire Walk is perhaps something devotees do in thanks to God after making a wish and receiving the desired outcome. Read more of this post

Andaman Islands, India – a cruising adventure!

Andaman Islands, India – a cruising adventure!

A few months back Vivien’s brother Andy and his partner Kelli asked if we wanted to join them for a cruising adventure – a trip to the Andaman Islands, India!   Quintessa, their 47 foot motor cruiser was to be our means of travel and around 5 other cruising yachts would also be making the trip from Thailand to the Andamans and back. The overall trip was to be around 5 weeks as India only issues a 4 week Tourist Visa, plus our cruising travel time to and from.

Facing this decision, my practical mind started throwing up silly “But what about …..?” questions.

Questions like “But will we get seasick – its 50+ hours at sea before we see land again?”; “But will we cope living in the relatively close quarters of a boat with Andy & Keli (and them with us) for such a long period of time?”; “But what will the Andaman Islands be like – it is part of India?” And then thankfully, the words of American writer Mark Twain came to mind and I knew we just had to say Yes!

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.”

The journey begins

So off we set, Quintessa under the guidance of Andy and Kelli and Beachouse57 with Dave and Rita at the helm as our boating company for the trip across. Goodbye Phuket and hello the Andaman Sea and 600 or so nautical miles and 2+ days and nights of constant cruising. For us cruising novices that meant 4 hour watches being responsible for ensuring we did not hit anything – like little coastal fishing boats, or larger ocean going freighters on their way to their next port! Daytime was relatively easy to see what was around us and the Radar told us what was over the horizon but night time required a lot more diligence and attention.

Thankfully we were travelling on a full moon so night time visibility was good. The weather was coming from behind us (moderate NE winds) so we were kind of surfing and bumping our way along with the weather. Still bumpy and rolling around making it difficult to stand for any length of time or to walk around – sitting (either killing time or on watch) or sleeping were the best options. The great news was that although the trip was uncomfortable (for us landlubbers), Vivien or I were not sick!

Port Blair – days 1 to 4

The blue roofs of the buildings hugging the hills around the harbour, the multitude of palm trees covering the northern shore line, and Ross Island sitting guard at the harbour entrance were all first impressions of Port Blair on our arrival.

Read more of this post

Ayutthaya – ancient cities of Thailand!

Mid January we took a road trip from our home in Hua Hin on east coast Thailand to Chiang Mai in the far north west – some 900 km one way. Overall a 2000 km round trip! We had set aside 2 weeks for the trip with a week in Chiang Mai and the remainder exploring places along the way. Two ‘must visit’ places for us were Ayutthaya & Sukhothai. This Blog post focuses on Ayutthaya – on of the ancient cities of Thailand which we found fascinating!

You can read about our exploration of the ancient cities of Sukhothai here!

Now World Heritage sites, Ayutthaya & Sukhothai tell the story of the original Kingdom of Siam. And as we have made Thailand our home in this new life as Retired Aussies In Asia, it seemed essential for our own cultural knowledge and understanding that we visit and explore these sites.


On our route north and only 80 km above Bangkok is the thriving town of Ayutthaya and within is the Historic City of Ayutthaya.

Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya was the second capital of the Siamese Kingdom.  It flourished from the 14th to the 18th centuries, during which time it grew to be one of the world’s largest and most cosmopolitan urban areas and a centre of global diplomacy and commerce.

Ayutthaya was strategically located on an island surrounded by three rivers connecting the city to the sea. This site was chosen because it was located above the tidal bore of the Gulf of Siam as it existed at that time, thus preventing attack of the city by the sea-going warships of other nations. The location also helped to protect the city from seasonal flooding.

The central and strategic heart of Historical Ayutthaya is where most travellers (including us) spend their time. “The island” stretches between the Prasak River in the east, the Chao Phraya River to the south and west, and the Mueang Canal and The Lopburi River from the north. The roughly oval-shaped island comes in at roughly five kilometres long from east to west and three kilometres wide from north to south.

This excerpt from one of our favourite independant travel guides Travelfish paints a picture of Ancient Ayutthaya:

By all reports, Ayutthaya was magnificent! Set on a riverine island the inner city was fortified by a 12-kilometre-long and five-metre-thick brick wall. Nearly a hundred gates opened to roads and canals reaching into some of the most fertile land in the region. Gilded chedis and Khmer-style spires topped temples and palaces amid a glittering skyline. According to Cambridge University’s A History of Thailand, a French Jesuit remarked in 1687 that “a single Idol” in Wat Phra Si Sanphet was “richer than all the Tabernacles of the Churches of Europe”.

Read more of this post

Sukhothai – ancient cities of Thailand!

This blog post focuses on Sukhothai – one of Thailand’s ancient cities. We visited as part of a 2-week road trip from our home in Hua Hin on east coast Thailand to Chiang Mai in the far north-west.  Two ‘must visit’ places we decided on to break-up our trip were historical Ayutthaya & Sukhothai.

You can read about our time in the ancient city of Ayutthaya here!


On our way north to Chiang Mai we spent a day exploring the preserved archaeological sites around Kamphaeng Phet and during the return leg we spent 2 days exploring preserved sites in and around Sukhothai.

We feel that even if the history doesn’t interest you, Sukhothai’s ruins do not fail to impress.

Located 12 kilometres east of the historical park along the Yom River is the small capital city of modern Sukhothai province –  “New Sukhothai” as it’s commonly referred to. The much smaller “Old City” stretching east from the Sukhothai Historical Park and is where we stayed so we could be close to the Historical Park. Everything we needed was there including a fantastic “Sukhothai style” Khao Soi! 🙂

Opened to the public in 1988, the Historical Park contains 193 archeological sites, including the remains of 26 monasteries, spread over 70 square kilometres altogether. While most of these consist of little more than a crumbling base or lopsided chedi, around a dozen key sites rank Sukhothai among Southeast Asia’s top historical destinations.

The UNESCO World Heritage website helps to put some context around these historic towns.

Situated in the lower northern region of present-day Thailand, the Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns is a serial property consisting of three physically closely related ancient towns. Sukhothai was the political and administrative capital of the first Kingdom of Siam in the 13th and 15th centuries. Si Satchanalai was the spiritual center of the kingdom and the site of numerous temples and Buddhist monasteries. Si Satchanalai was also the centre of the all-important ceramic export industry. The third town, Kamphaeng Phet, was located at the kingdom’s southern frontier and had important military functions in protecting the kingdom from foreign intruders as well as providing security for the kingdom’s extensive trading network. All three towns shared a common infrastructure to control water resources, and were linked by a major highway known as the Thanon Phra Ruang after the king who constructed it.

Sukhothai, Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet all shared a common language and alphabet, a common administrative and legal system, and other features which leave no doubt as to their unity as a single political entity. All three towns also boasted a number of fine monuments and works of monumental sculpture, illustrating the beginning of Thai architecture and art known as the “Sukhothai style.”

Read more of this post

Phraya Nakhon Cave – Well worth the effort!

With visitors in tow, we visited what is said to be one of Thailand’s most beautiful and certainly most photographed caves. First impressions when we finally entered the enormous main chamber and saw the Kuha Karuhas (Royal) pavilion bathed in sunlight in the middle of Phraya Nakhon Cave – well worth the effort!

Our adventure started in Sam Roi Yot National Park, about a 45 minutes drive South of Hua Hin. We’d read that it’s best to be actually inside the cave around 10:00am as the pavilion and central chamber is swathed in sunlight from approximately 10:30 to 11:30am creating a magical view – so we’d set off early.

The trip in

Arriving at Bang Pu village, the friendly National Park staff pointed to the beginning of the track telling us it’s only 2km to the cave. What they omitted to mention was that we actually had to make the steep climb up and down Tian Mountain to reach the very appealing Laem Sala beach. And having crossed the beach the track follows another rather steep and rocky path up for another 430 meters to the cave entrance. This second leg up to the cave entrance takes around 30 minutes. About half way up the hill is a viewpoint where you can take a break and enjoy great views of Laem Sala beach, and a number of small nearby islands.

Read more of this post